How To Make
Hypertufa
Ever wondered, ''How to make
Hypertufa?'' Well, the first step is the thought and plan
regarding safety.For this, it is essential to have eye
protection, sufficient ventilation in the region of work, cover
for the legs and arms, a dust mask and rubber gloves.
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It is advised that the hypertufa must not
be made when the temperature is less than 50 degrees or more
than 86 degrees. While beginning, all the materials have to be
garnered and the work area must be prepared. Some choose to
work in a garage on a robust table that is layered with
plastic. The mixing of the dry constituents is done outside the
work area. As a result, there is no dust due to cement and
perlite floating in the work area.
For fast and simple release of the
creation from the mold, the inner surface of the mold must be
sprayed with Mazola or Pam no stick. The hypertufa must be put
directly against the mold, when it is desired that the texture
of the mold should be seen on the hypertufa creation.
The peat moss is passed through a
strainer. The dry constituents are blended in the mixing pan.
Some amount of dry ingredients is reserved. Water is then
poured in small quantities. It is desired that the mixture
should not become sloppy. If some amount is taken in the hand
and squeezed, the mixture must hold together. This wet mixture
is transported to the mold that has been created. In the mold,
the walls must have a thickness of 1.25 inches to 2 inches. As
the size of the container increases, the thickness of the walls
must increase.
If a planter is being made, there have to
be drainage holes at the bottom side. For creating the drainage
holes, dowels may be used. Now the garbage bag may be closed.
The creation must be cured for some days. The curing time at
the beginning depends on the wetness of the mixture at the
beginning, the dimensions of the creation and the climatic
conditions. When it is found that an indentation cannot be made
with a finger but the creation can be scratched with a tool, it
must be removed from the garbage bag and mold for the second
curing period. After the creation passes this scratch test, it
must be turned upside down and the mold must be lifted off. A
texture can be given using a wire brush. The creation is now
kept in shade for curing for some weeks. It has to be watered
often. The protruding fibers have to be burnt off using a grill
lighter or blow torch. Protective eye goggles have to be used.
A mixture of 90 percent water and 10 percent vinegar has to be
poured on the planter and allowed to dry.
The Hypertufa How-To Manual by
Claudia Brownlie.
Learn all of the best tricks to make your Garden and Lawn Art
the envy of all your neighbors.
Click here to visit Claudia''s
website!
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