Ever wondered, ”How to make Hypertufa?” Well, the first step is the thought and plan regarding safety. For this, it is essential to have eye protection, sufficient ventilation in the region of work, cover for the legs and arms, a dust mask and rubber gloves.
It is advised that the hypertufa must not be made when the temperature is less than 50 degrees or more than 86 degrees. While beginning, all the materials have to be garnered and the work area must be prepared. Some choose to work in a garage on a robust table that is layered with plastic. The mixing of the dry constituents is done outside the work area. As a result, there is no dust due to cement and perlite floating in the work area.
For fast and simple release of the creation from the mold, the inner surface of the mold must be sprayed with Mazola or Pam no stick. The hypertufa must be put directly against the mold, when it is desired that the texture of the mold should be seen on the hypertufa creation.
The peat moss is passed through a strainer. The dry constituents are blended in the mixing pan. Some amount of dry ingredients is reserved. Water is then poured in small quantities. It is desired that the mixture should not become sloppy. If some amount is taken in the hand and squeezed, the mixture must hold together. This wet mixture is transported to the mold that has been created. In the mold, the walls must have a thickness of 1.25 inches to 2 inches. As the size of the container increases, the thickness of the walls must increase.
If a planter is being made, there have to be drainage holes at the bottom side. For creating the drainage holes, dowels may be used. Now the garbage bag may be closed. The creation must be cured for some days. The curing time at the beginning depends on the wetness of the mixture at the beginning, the dimensions of the creation and the climatic conditions. When it is found that an indentation cannot be made with a finger but the creation can be scratched with a tool, it must be removed from the garbage bag and mold for the second curing period. After the creation passes this scratch test, it must be turned upside down and the mold must be lifted off. A texture can be given using a wire brush. The creation is now kept in shade for curing for some weeks. It has to be watered often. The protruding fibers have to be burnt off using a grill lighter or blow torch. Protective eye goggles have to be used. A mixture of 90 percent water and 10 percent vinegar has to be poured on the planter and allowed to dry.